Watches & Wonders 2025 standouts
A closer look at some the most captivating releases from Geneva—where design, innovation, and storytelling come together in six unforgettable timepieces.
By Anandhi Gopinath
Bulgari introduces a new chapter for its most iconic creation with the Serpenti Aeterna, a distillation of the serpent’s form into its purest, most sculptural expression. Two models are offered: one in 18-carat white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, featuring rhodium-plated hands; the other in 18-carat rose gold, similarly adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds, distinguished by its rose gold-plated hands. Both timepieces are powered by a discreet quartz movement, with the pavé diamond-set dial seamlessly integrated into the flowing bracelet.
The familiar snakehead and scales have been replaced by clean, fluid lines, while a hidden clasp ensures a continuous, ergonomic fit around the wrist. Inside, a subtle hexagonal pattern engraved on the gold surface quietly nods to Serpenti’s enduring heritage, reimagined for a new era.
Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2025 spotlight is undeniably the revived Tank à Guichets, a masterclass in minimalism and mechanical charm. First introduced in 1928, this digital-display marvel returns under the Cartier Privé collection, now with a modern twist. Time is read through two elegant apertures—jumping hours above, dragging minutes below—set within a brushed platinum or gold case.
The winding crown sits regally at 12 o’clock, underscoring its unconventional charm. One standout model features angled apertures at 10 and 4 o’clock, a tribute to the creative flair of the 1930s. Powered by the manual 9755 MC calibre and paired with rich alligator straps, the new Tank à Guichets is bold, cerebral and, like all true icons, absolutely timeless.
In a daring blend of horological tradition and next-gen innovation, IWC introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL—its first tourbillon protected by the patented SPRIN-g PROTECT shock absorber system. Housed in a stealthy Ceratanium case, the skeletonised movement reduces weight to maximise shock resistance—surviving impacts in excess of 10,000 g. At the heart of it is the flying minute tourbillon, exposed at 6 o’clock, suspended in a cage of incredible lightness.
The re-engineered 82915 calibre also boasts an 80-hour power reserve, visible beneath a sapphire crystal dial. Rugged yet impossibly refined, this technical marvel is limited to just 100 pieces and pushes the boundaries of what a pilot’s watch—let alone a tourbillon—can endure.
This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre reimagines travel timekeeping with the new Reverso Tribute Geographic. Powered by the newly developed, hand-wound Calibre 834, the watch places a sophisticated worldtime display directly on the reverse side of its iconic swivelling case. Rather than the city disc rotating—as in conventional worldtimers—the 24-hour ring itself turns, ensuring outstanding legibility across 24 time zones.
A concealed pusher between the lugs allows intuitive, precise adjustments with crisp one-hour jumps. A laser-engraved and lacquered world map lends depth and artistry to the polished steel or pink gold caseback, making each glance a small journey around the globe. Fronted by a sunray-finished dial with a grande date and small seconds, the Reverso Tribute Geographic blends mechanical ingenuity with the spirit of effortless adventure.
Panerai’s Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 exemplifies the brand’s commitment to robust yet lightweight design. The 44mm case is crafted from brushed Grade 5 titanium, known for being 60% harder than steel while significantly lighter, enhancing comfort on the wrist. The green sun-brushed sandwich dial features luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, a date display at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Powered by the automatic P.980 calibre, the watch offers a 3-day power reserve and includes a calendar aperture function. Remarkably, it boasts a water resistance of up to 500 metres, underscoring its suitability for professional diving. The timepiece is complemented by a dark green calf leather strap with ecru stitching, equipped with the PAM Click Release System for effortless interchangeability, making it both versatile and stylish.
To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith presents the G.F.J., a tribute to founder Georges Favre-Jacot and a celebration of the maison’s unwavering pursuit of precision. More than a commemorative piece, it reflects the spirit of innovation that has defined Zenith since 1865—the first manufacture to unite all watchmaking crafts under one roof. Housed in a 39mm platinum case, the G.F.J. is powered by the newly re-engineered calibre 135, famed for its dominance in mid-20th-century observatory chronometer competitions. The hand-wound movement features a Breguet overcoil, stop-seconds mechanism, and a robust 72-hour power reserve, chronometer-certified to within +/-2 seconds a day. The dial layers blue “brick” guilloché, lapis lazuli, and mother-of-pearl, echoing Zenith’s artistry. Limited to 160 pieces, the G.F.J. comes with three interchangeable straps in blue and black leather, with an optional platinum bracelet, honouring Zenith’s past while moving confidently into its future.
Watches & Wonders 2025 standouts
A closer look at some the most captivating releases from Geneva—where design, innovation, and storytelling come together in six unforgettable timepieces.
By Anandhi Gopinath
Bulgari introduces a new chapter for its most iconic creation with the Serpenti Aeterna, a distillation of the serpent’s form into its purest, most sculptural expression. Two models are offered: one in 18-carat white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, featuring rhodium-plated hands; the other in 18-carat rose gold, similarly adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds, distinguished by its rose gold-plated hands. Both timepieces are powered by a discreet quartz movement, with the pavé diamond-set dial seamlessly integrated into the flowing bracelet.
The familiar snakehead and scales have been replaced by clean, fluid lines, while a hidden clasp ensures a continuous, ergonomic fit around the wrist. Inside, a subtle hexagonal pattern engraved on the gold surface quietly nods to Serpenti’s enduring heritage, reimagined for a new era.
Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2025 spotlight is undeniably the revived Tank à Guichets, a masterclass in minimalism and mechanical charm. First introduced in 1928, this digital-display marvel returns under the Cartier Privé collection, now with a modern twist. Time is read through two elegant apertures—jumping hours above, dragging minutes below—set within a brushed platinum or gold case.
The winding crown sits regally at 12 o’clock, underscoring its unconventional charm. One standout model features angled apertures at 10 and 4 o’clock, a tribute to the creative flair of the 1930s. Powered by the manual 9755 MC calibre and paired with rich alligator straps, the new Tank à Guichets is bold, cerebral and, like all true icons, absolutely timeless.
In a daring blend of horological tradition and next-gen innovation, IWC introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL—its first tourbillon protected by the patented SPRIN-g PROTECT shock absorber system. Housed in a stealthy Ceratanium case, the skeletonised movement reduces weight to maximise shock resistance—surviving impacts in excess of 10,000 g. At the heart of it is the flying minute tourbillon, exposed at 6 o’clock, suspended in a cage of incredible lightness.
The re-engineered 82915 calibre also boasts an 80-hour power reserve, visible beneath a sapphire crystal dial. Rugged yet impossibly refined, this technical marvel is limited to just 100 pieces and pushes the boundaries of what a pilot’s watch—let alone a tourbillon—can endure.
This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre reimagines travel timekeeping with the new Reverso Tribute Geographic. Powered by the newly developed, hand-wound Calibre 834, the watch places a sophisticated worldtime display directly on the reverse side of its iconic swivelling case. Rather than the city disc rotating—as in conventional worldtimers—the 24-hour ring itself turns, ensuring outstanding legibility across 24 time zones.
A concealed pusher between the lugs allows intuitive, precise adjustments with crisp one-hour jumps. A laser-engraved and lacquered world map lends depth and artistry to the polished steel or pink gold caseback, making each glance a small journey around the globe. Fronted by a sunray-finished dial with a grande date and small seconds, the Reverso Tribute Geographic blends mechanical ingenuity with the spirit of effortless adventure.
Panerai’s Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 exemplifies the brand’s commitment to robust yet lightweight design. The 44mm case is crafted from brushed Grade 5 titanium, known for being 60% harder than steel while significantly lighter, enhancing comfort on the wrist. The green sun-brushed sandwich dial features luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, a date display at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Powered by the automatic P.980 calibre, the watch offers a 3-day power reserve and includes a calendar aperture function. Remarkably, it boasts a water resistance of up to 500 metres, underscoring its suitability for professional diving. The timepiece is complemented by a dark green calf leather strap with ecru stitching, equipped with the PAM Click Release System for effortless interchangeability, making it both versatile and stylish.
To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith presents the G.F.J., a tribute to founder Georges Favre-Jacot and a celebration of the maison’s unwavering pursuit of precision. More than a commemorative piece, it reflects the spirit of innovation that has defined Zenith since 1865—the first manufacture to unite all watchmaking crafts under one roof. Housed in a 39mm platinum case, the G.F.J. is powered by the newly re-engineered calibre 135, famed for its dominance in mid-20th-century observatory chronometer competitions. The hand-wound movement features a Breguet overcoil, stop-seconds mechanism, and a robust 72-hour power reserve, chronometer-certified to within +/-2 seconds a day. The dial layers blue “brick” guilloché, lapis lazuli, and mother-of-pearl, echoing Zenith’s artistry. Limited to 160 pieces, the G.F.J. comes with three interchangeable straps in blue and black leather, with an optional platinum bracelet, honouring Zenith’s past while moving confidently into its future.
